We were invited to enter the Isiboro Secure Indigenous Territory and National Park (otherwise known as the TIPNIS) by an Indigenous leader. There are no roads into the park, the only form of transport is on small motorised canoes. This is one of the last remaining wild parts of the Amazon rainforest but its integrity and the lives of the Indigenous people are being threatened by development plans proposed by the government. It was a real privilege to be invited into place so rarely visited by westerners. This is the first part of our 10 day trip into the TIPNIS.