The Ending Summer: Indonesia
An Indonesian journey fuelled by beginner waves and coconuts.
‘The best surfer is the one having the most fun…’ and thank f*** for that because that’s all I really got going for me.’ On that note, I wasn’t chasing hollow barrels in 1 foot reefy water, but I was on the hunt for long fat waves with slow take-offs. I found exactly that and more and spent months in the water.
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Island life
THE PHILIPPINES
Mylene and I approached the Philippines in much the same way that Lachie, Scott and myself approached South America. Completely unplanned, somewhat unprepared, and utterly ready to wing it. Turns out it works pretty well.
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The Castaways
PLAYA CHICA
One month into the Mexico Surf Safari and there hadn't really been all that much surf. There was some safari, but it had resulted in one of our two stallions being sent to the wrecks after only a week. However, as New Years approached, it looked like the game of hide and seek with the surf gods was over.
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A WET DREAM
OAXACA
With the new boards strapped on to the roof and the squad all in the one car we headed south in search of waves and sunny warm beaches. Oaxaca is a surf state and while the swell didn’t always play its part, the beaches were still amazing.
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OOOPS
PUERTO ESCONDIDO
The dream of the Mex trip was to surf endlessly on beautiful waves, and what better place to start than the surfing capital of Mexico, Puerto Escondido. Turns out, apparently anywhere would’ve been a better place to start. There was no surf and instead with filled our time dealing with lots of accidents. Classic.
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THE WASHING MACHINE
PICHILEMU
After getting the motos sorted along with fixing Scott's eagerness to listen to literally anything other than reggaetón, we hit the road from Santiago to Pichilemu to suss out a rumoured 1km wave.
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